Nottingham Hazelnut Tree
Nottingham is an old English hazelnut tree grown for good-flavoured, large edible nuts[1] [2] used as dessert nuts or for cooking, a good-sized crop, a compact habit growing to around 2.5 - 4m tall and wide with a strong display of yellow catkins in winter and early spring before the nuts mature later in the year. It is usually upright and very similar to Webb’s Prize Cob, with elongated cob-like fruit and good eating quality. [7] Expect a good harvest around September. [7] [8]
It is also known as Pearson’s Prolific, Corylus maxima Nottingham Prolific, Corylus avellana ‘Nottingham Prolific and Nottingham Cob[1], so if you see those names elsewhere, they are normally referring to the same variety. [1] [2] [3]
For the best-sized harvest, plant a pollination partner nearby. The best named pollination partners found are Hall’s Giant, also known as Géante de Halle or Merveille de Bollwiller, and Webb’s Prize Cob. Failing that, nearby wild or common hazel may help cross-pollinate your tree.
Planting a Nottingham Hazelnut Tree
Plant Nottingham in full sun or partial shade. For the best nut production, choose a sheltered position with moist but well-drained soil and avoid frost pockets where possible. [1] [2]
Before planting, water the pot well. Dig a generous planting hole, loosen the surrounding soil, and plant the tree at the same depth it was growing in the pot. Firm the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly after planting.
Keep it watered during dry spells while it establishes, especially in the first growing season. Once established, prune as needed to keep the plant open, manageable and productive, removing dead, damaged or badly placed stems.
Hardy to around minus 20 degrees centigrade or H6 for those that like the RHS frost tables.
Other Interesting Information About Nottingham Hazelnut Trees
Pearson’s Prolific was already being recommended in The Gardener’s Magazine in 1831[9], where it was listed under nuts and described simply as “a great bearer”. That makes Nottingham more than just an old-sounding name; it is a hazelnut with nearly two centuries of documented growing history.
Pearson’s Prolific has done what most fruit varieties never manage: it appears in 1830s gardening literature, turns up again in Victorian fruit catalogues, gets exported into New Zealand growing advice, and is still being chosen by modern garden designers. That is a better track record than most “new and improved” garden plants can claim. [9] [10] [11] [12]
Show sources
[1] RHS — Corylus avellana ‘Pearson’s Prolific’
https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/66757/corylus-avellana-pearson-s-prolific-%28f%29/details
[2] RHS — Cobnuts and filberts growing guide
https://www.rhs.org.uk/nuts/cobnuts-filberts
[3] Trees and Shrubs Online — Corylus avellana × maxima
https://www.treesandshrubsonline.org/articles/corylus/corylus-avellana-x-maxima/
[4] USDA ARS — Plant Inventory No. 200, Part III
https://www.ars-grin.gov/npgs/pi_books/scans/pi200pt3.pdf
[5] Kentish Cobnuts Association — Technical Information
https://kentishcobnutsassociation.org.uk/growing-nuts/
[6] Suffolk Biodiversity Information Service — Cobnuts in Suffolk and East Anglia
https://www.suffolkbis.org.uk/sites/default/files/images/stog/STOGAN%2006%20Cobnuts%20in%20Suffolk.pdf
[7] Frank P Matthews — Nottingham Hazelnut Tree
https://www.frankpmatthews.com/catalogue/fruit-trees/hazel/nottingham/
[8] Agroforestry Research Trust — Hazelnut Corylus avellana Pearson’s Prolific
https://www.agroforestry.co.uk/product/hazelnut-corylus-avellana-pearsons-prolific/
[9] The Gardener’s Magazine — Pearson’s Prolific listed as “A great bearer”
https://darwin-online.org.uk/converted/pdf/1827-37_Gardener%27sMagazine_CUL-DAR.LIB.744%5B.6%5D.pdf
[10] George Bunyard & Co. — Catalogue of Fruit Trees Cultivated by George Bunyard & Co., Royal Nurseries, 1898-99
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Catalogue_of_fruit_trees_cultivated_by_George_Bunyard_%26_Co.%2C_Royal_Nurseries%2C_1898-99_%28IA_cu31924000721252%29.pdf
[11] New Zealand Journal of Agriculture — Nut Trees, Pearson’s Prolific mentioned as a pollinating variety
https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZJAG19560416.2.47
[12] The Guardian — Which hazel?
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/18/dan-pearson-gardens-hazel-trees
Quick Fruit Tree Links
Take a look at our TOP SELLING FRUIT TREES, Wet ground issues then choose a PEAR TREE first, followed by APPLE TREES. For more information on pollination please look at choosing the CORRECT POLLINATION PARTNER
Fruit Tree Life Expectancy
Most fruit trees will give you AT LEAST 40 years of fruit. Pears can go to 70. Records of 200 year old trees exist but this is the exception, not the rule.
Do I Need To Stake My Bare Root Fruit Tree?
Most of the time, the answer will be no, especially if under 200cm tall. However our article on Tree Staking should help guide you.
Planting In The Corner Of A Garden
Air and light is reduced in this location which could promote fungus and bacterial issues. Corners of houses and fences can also suffer leeching issues so we advise against it.
For Cheaper Hazelnut Trees click CHEAP HAZELNUT TREE OFFER Or Here For Hazel Hedging
General Hazelnut Storing
Hazelnuts can be stored after harvest if they are dried properly and kept cool. Oregon State University Extension says good eating quality can be kept for up to a year in the refrigerator, and up to two years if frozen. For ordinary home use, the important point is simple: dry the nuts well, keep them cool and dry, and do not store damp nuts in a sealed container. [1] [2]
Picking Hazelnuts
Hazelnuts can be picked early as green cobnuts for fresh eating, or left longer to ripen fully for drying and storage.
For fresh green cobnuts, pick when the nuts are full-sized but still green. Keep them cool, ventilated and turn them regularly so they do not sweat and go mouldy. [4]
For ripe hazelnuts, wait until the husks begin to yellow and the nuts turn brown, usually in autumn. Once picked, dry them in a cool, airy place before storing. [3]
Properly dried hazelnuts keep far better than damp or freshly picked nuts. [1] [2]
Pruning Hazelnut Trees
Prune hazelnuts, cobnuts and filberts mainly in winter, while the plant is dormant. Remove dead, damaged, diseased, crossing and crowded stems, then keep the middle open so light and air can reach the framework. RHS says winter pruning is ideally done when the catkins are releasing pollen, because moving the branches can help release it and improve pollination. Kentish Cobnuts Association recommends maintaining around 6–8 outward-growing framework branches. Remove unwanted suckers if they are crowding the base, but selected suckers can be kept where they help fill gaps or renew an older framework. [3] [5]
Hazelnut Brutting
Brutting is an optional summer pruning technique used on hazelnuts, cobnuts and filberts, mainly by more serious nut growers. In August, strong new side shoots are partly broken by hand rather than cut off cleanly. This is done on the long new side shoots, not on the main framework branches. Bend each strong side shoot roughly in half until it cracks, but leave the broken end hanging on until winter pruning. This checks vigorous leafy growth, opens the plant up to more light and air, and helps the remaining wood and fruit buds ripen for the following year. It can make the tree easier to manage and may improve cropping, but it is not essential for beginners; normal winter pruning is enough for most garden-grown hazel. [3]
Coppiced hazel wood has many traditional uses, including basket work, bean rods, pea sticks, thatching spars, hurdles, hedge stakes and garden supports. Forestry Commission material lists historic and modern uses of hazel coppice including wattles, hurdles, pea sticks, bean rods, thatching spars, hedge stakes and garden fencing. [6]
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